Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Vintage Week: How to Buy



Whilst antiquing this weekend, I started thinking about vintage shopping and decided to do a vintage week, y'all. Rachel Zoe would be so proud. First up, how to buy....

It's hard to remember when I became infatuated with vintage shopping. Probably sometime in college, when I lived mere blocks from one of the greatest vintage shops ever (the now shuttered Ahab Bowen in Uptown Dallas). I found that in my early twenties I was moving away from the jeans, polos shirts and sorority T-shirts and began trying to build a wardrobe that I could use as a professional base, but I also wanted really interesting and fun items to mix in. I found a budget-friendly way to do that by buying a few nice staples a year and a lot of vintage pieces.

Along the way, I made a list of rules that helped me shop smarter. I think most people miss out on vintage shopping because they find it too daunting, but if you follow these rules it is super easy and completely worth it.

1) Don't look for something specific. I think this is true for shopping at any time. It's harder to shop when you are dead set on one item. Especially with vintage, part of the beauty is that you never know what you will find. That is not to say make a snap decision. You have to know your own style and what does and doesn't work on you for this to be an effective way to shop. I found it helped to make lists. One being a list of "goal" pieces: for me that was a really wonderful coat, a few timeless party dresses, a stand-out handbag, etc. The other list was for the season. During February and August I would make lists of what I wanted for the season and over the course of the next couple of months I would search for those items.

2) Try it on. No matter what. I hate trying things on, but you must must must with vintage clothing. It's essential. Sizing is not all the same, especially over the course of decades. You know how people always say that 0 is the new 2? I'm not a big fan of that saying, but it's probably true. I'm pretty sure there wasn't a size 0 in the 1950s. My point is, even if you think you're not a size 6, try it on anyway. It could fit.

3) It's okay if it doesn't fit. That being said, you can always alter things and you probably need to figure that cost in to the cost of the actual garment for 90 percent of the things you buy in vintage stores.  There are very few things that I bought that fit "off the rack." Additionally, altering a piece can really update it sometimes.

4) Skip the shoes. And while we're at it, the lingerie too. It may be tempting, but trust me. Things worn this close to the body and this often are usually not in great shape even after a few years. Think about your own shoes from a few years ago.

5) Do your research. If you have something in mind. Say, an Oscar de la Renta party dress from the 1980s. Search online at eBay and Amazon and get a ballpark idea of what you should expect to pay. That way you won't overpay, or conversely, pass up a great price!

6) Dealbreakers. Inspect everything before you buy. Look for moth holes, stains (especially around the underarm area, gross I know), unrepairable tears (I consider those to be anything that's not on a seam) and worn down fabrics. If your garment has any of the above, leave it on the racks.

7) Find what speaks to you. My favorite decade, no surprise here, is the late '50s and early '60s. As I was not alive during these fabulous years, I did my research by watching movies from the era (That Touch of Mink, Breakfast at Tiffany's, Rear Window, To Catch a Thief, Pillow Talk, Sabrina and The Birds come to mind). Just be sure you don't veer into a caricature. Vintage should be incorporated into your wardrobe in measured doses. Always pair your favorite vintage pieces with contemporary fashions.

8) Have fun. There is nothing more amazing than finding a vintage item that is one of a kind.

For more, check out Rachel Zoe's tips. Tomorrow, my favorite vintage finds!

xo,
The Canary Diaries


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